4 November
Demise of an Empire
Austria became a republic after the First World War. The assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand is popularly seen as starting that war. The republic saw out one of the most powerful dynasties in European history, the Hapsburgs. At its zenith, the power of this family spanned most of Europe and even extended, for a short while, to Mexico.
Vienna was the capital of the Hapsburg Austro-Hungarian Empire and, even today, the evidence of their great power is evidenced by the grand palaces and state buildings that grace central Vienna.
A few characters featured in our visits to the monuments to this grand dynasty. Foremost was Elisabeth (Sisi), Kaiserin (Empress) of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until her assassination in1898. By all accounts, Sisi was a beautiful woman, but a little high-maintenance. Each day, it took two hours to “dress” her hair. Washing it was a full day exercise – it did reach her ankles!. At the age of 40, she decided that nobody should see her as she aged, so she refused all photographs and portraits. She was rarely seen in public and even then, always heavily veiled or hidden by an umbrella.
Never really happy in her role as Empress, she sank into depression, more so after the suicide of her only son, Rudolf. Through all this though, Sisi was a great traveller. Sadly, on a tip to Geneva she was assassinated by an Italian anarchist.
Rudolf himself was the second interesting character to emerge from our wanders through the palaces of the Hapsburgs. “Rudy' was a bit of a philanderer and as so an obvious subject for Hollywood. Omar Sharif immortalized Rudolf in the highly romanticized 1970s movie “Mayerling”. Seems that the true story of Rudolf is a little less romantic. His many 'dalliances' resulted in his contracting a nasty disease which he passed on to his wife. As things got worse for Rudy (and here the plot becomes foggy) he turned his pistol on his mistress and then on himself.
The last 'hapless Hapsburg” - yes it had to be said, was Maximilian, the younger brother of Franz Joseph. As a younger brother, Max was looking for an empire of his very own. Mexico came up and he took it, partly as a result of the urgings of his ambitious wife. (Say no more!). It was bad timing for Max. Mexican rebels overthrew his government and poor Max was executed.
Today the centuries' old rule of the Hapsburgs could be just a glorious memory for the Viennese and other Austrians, but for the well preserved buildings and artifacts that remain to remind us of the glories of past empires.
And let's not forget that symbol of Vienna - St Stephen's Cathedral - always recognisable and always stunning. Today we went up the tower in the circular lift to the open walkway. AMAZING! .
Demise of an Empire
Austria became a republic after the First World War. The assassination of the Archduke Ferdinand is popularly seen as starting that war. The republic saw out one of the most powerful dynasties in European history, the Hapsburgs. At its zenith, the power of this family spanned most of Europe and even extended, for a short while, to Mexico.
Vienna was the capital of the Hapsburg Austro-Hungarian Empire and, even today, the evidence of their great power is evidenced by the grand palaces and state buildings that grace central Vienna.
A few characters featured in our visits to the monuments to this grand dynasty. Foremost was Elisabeth (Sisi), Kaiserin (Empress) of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until her assassination in1898. By all accounts, Sisi was a beautiful woman, but a little high-maintenance. Each day, it took two hours to “dress” her hair. Washing it was a full day exercise – it did reach her ankles!. At the age of 40, she decided that nobody should see her as she aged, so she refused all photographs and portraits. She was rarely seen in public and even then, always heavily veiled or hidden by an umbrella.
Never really happy in her role as Empress, she sank into depression, more so after the suicide of her only son, Rudolf. Through all this though, Sisi was a great traveller. Sadly, on a tip to Geneva she was assassinated by an Italian anarchist.
Rudolf himself was the second interesting character to emerge from our wanders through the palaces of the Hapsburgs. “Rudy' was a bit of a philanderer and as so an obvious subject for Hollywood. Omar Sharif immortalized Rudolf in the highly romanticized 1970s movie “Mayerling”. Seems that the true story of Rudolf is a little less romantic. His many 'dalliances' resulted in his contracting a nasty disease which he passed on to his wife. As things got worse for Rudy (and here the plot becomes foggy) he turned his pistol on his mistress and then on himself.
The last 'hapless Hapsburg” - yes it had to be said, was Maximilian, the younger brother of Franz Joseph. As a younger brother, Max was looking for an empire of his very own. Mexico came up and he took it, partly as a result of the urgings of his ambitious wife. (Say no more!). It was bad timing for Max. Mexican rebels overthrew his government and poor Max was executed.
Today the centuries' old rule of the Hapsburgs could be just a glorious memory for the Viennese and other Austrians, but for the well preserved buildings and artifacts that remain to remind us of the glories of past empires.
And let's not forget that symbol of Vienna - St Stephen's Cathedral - always recognisable and always stunning. Today we went up the tower in the circular lift to the open walkway. AMAZING! .
2 November – 3 November
A different world
Travelling from a motorway stop (free-camp) to Brno in the Czech Republic on to Vienna, we were looking for a place to park and see the wonders of this city. Sadly, Brno was a little too crowded for us to find a parking area, so we just did our shopping before pressing on to the far more expensive Austria.
One of the great things about Campervan travel is the opportunity to meet fellow travellers from all over the world. On previous trips, we had many a night comparing travel experiences with people we met at the washing-up sinks, 'campers' kitchen' or waiting for a bus or tram. Tonight, in Vienna, we know that 1500 people in Brisbane lost power a few hours ago in a thunder storm. We know the best bets for tomorrow's Melbourne Cup and we can listen to the same radio stations that we hear at home every morning and, with the internet, we can see what the weather will be and, consequently, what we should wear. Not only that – we can look up the bus timetable and see what time the buses run from our camping area to town.
This camping ground is packed, but there is nowhere for people to meet and chat. There is no opportunity for interaction, unless we happen to meet by chance in the shower or toilet. A bit sad!
We have often wondered why much of Europe closes down for tourists in September. Today we wondered again, as temperatures pushed 20C and the sun belted down.
The 'global village' is truly with us. Yesterday morning, we used Google Earth to check out the motorway stop we slept in last night. After a couple of days' 'down time' (we had no Eastern European maps) our sat-nav “Navgirl” woke up within metres of crossing the Austrian border and directed us to our camping area in Vienna. In a way, we have become so dependent on technology that we simply don't seek or need the human interaction that was such a big part of travels in the past!
31 October – 1 November
What the Russkies left behind
During our previous visit to Eastern Europe (2000-2001) we were regularly taken aback by the attitudes of the custodians of the 'kassa” - the ticket booths. In countries that are a little more tourist savvy, the first face you see at any attraction is young, multi-lingual, helpful and sometimes even friendly. The 'New Europe” will soon adjust to this, but for now we must accept brusqueness and that officious attitude that the old Communist world seemed to create! Uniformly, one is met by the Fraus that the Russians left behind! Just past middle-age, mostly 'imposing' in body mass, these less than jolly souls “hrumph”, mumble and stamp you into most museums, art galleries and churches – and demand entrance money for toilets! Oh yes, the joys of paying to visit a loo are not to be missed, especially in Czech loos where the loo paper is OUTSIDE the cubicle and you must select before you enter. Just how many squares do you think you will need?
To get away from these basics, Prague, over the past couple of days, was not in any way spoilt by these relics of the old Eastern Europe. The sun was out again! Prague is a beautiful city, even more so in good weather. It might sound silly from us who live in the sub-tropics, but, between 8 to 14C creates an ideal temperature for walking about in the late autumn sun – that is when you are prepared with a couple of layers that you wouldn't even dream of wearing at home.
We mostly wandered about the older parts of the city for the past two days. One highlight was the Museum of Communism - situated above a McDonalds. How fitting? This small museum and the larger city museum, taught us a lot about Czech history. Walking up and down Wenceslas “Square”, really a boulevard, we felt the history of the many events that occurred here. It was here that the 'Velvet Revolution' of 1989 played out as, in the November chill, day after day of massed, 'people power' overwhelmed the old Communist state. Here, too, in the 1960s, young Czech patriots burnt themselves to death in protest against the Russian domination of their country. Before that, the hectic events of the Nazi invasion of 1939 and the breakup of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire were all played out here.
And how could we forget the beauty of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle? Just magical when they first come into view! And then, there are so many angles to capture them from – especially with the perfect weather over the past two days. The Old Town Square today was great – sitting in a cafe with our coffees, watching the square fill with people, listening to the jangling bells of Tyn Church as a groom and his groomsmen had a lot of fun with the bells, calling the bride and the congregation to church.
Our camping ground is only a few klms from the city and close to a tram line, an ideal location to explore a city like Prague. We have free broadband internet and all the 'mod-cons' of modern European camping grounds (especially free showers. Oh, how the female of this party hates being stuck with the time limitations of the jeton-token for her shower!)
What the Russkies left behind
During our previous visit to Eastern Europe (2000-2001) we were regularly taken aback by the attitudes of the custodians of the 'kassa” - the ticket booths. In countries that are a little more tourist savvy, the first face you see at any attraction is young, multi-lingual, helpful and sometimes even friendly. The 'New Europe” will soon adjust to this, but for now we must accept brusqueness and that officious attitude that the old Communist world seemed to create! Uniformly, one is met by the Fraus that the Russians left behind! Just past middle-age, mostly 'imposing' in body mass, these less than jolly souls “hrumph”, mumble and stamp you into most museums, art galleries and churches – and demand entrance money for toilets! Oh yes, the joys of paying to visit a loo are not to be missed, especially in Czech loos where the loo paper is OUTSIDE the cubicle and you must select before you enter. Just how many squares do you think you will need?
To get away from these basics, Prague, over the past couple of days, was not in any way spoilt by these relics of the old Eastern Europe. The sun was out again! Prague is a beautiful city, even more so in good weather. It might sound silly from us who live in the sub-tropics, but, between 8 to 14C creates an ideal temperature for walking about in the late autumn sun – that is when you are prepared with a couple of layers that you wouldn't even dream of wearing at home.
We mostly wandered about the older parts of the city for the past two days. One highlight was the Museum of Communism - situated above a McDonalds. How fitting? This small museum and the larger city museum, taught us a lot about Czech history. Walking up and down Wenceslas “Square”, really a boulevard, we felt the history of the many events that occurred here. It was here that the 'Velvet Revolution' of 1989 played out as, in the November chill, day after day of massed, 'people power' overwhelmed the old Communist state. Here, too, in the 1960s, young Czech patriots burnt themselves to death in protest against the Russian domination of their country. Before that, the hectic events of the Nazi invasion of 1939 and the breakup of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire were all played out here.
And how could we forget the beauty of Charles Bridge and Prague Castle? Just magical when they first come into view! And then, there are so many angles to capture them from – especially with the perfect weather over the past two days. The Old Town Square today was great – sitting in a cafe with our coffees, watching the square fill with people, listening to the jangling bells of Tyn Church as a groom and his groomsmen had a lot of fun with the bells, calling the bride and the congregation to church.
Our camping ground is only a few klms from the city and close to a tram line, an ideal location to explore a city like Prague. We have free broadband internet and all the 'mod-cons' of modern European camping grounds (especially free showers. Oh, how the female of this party hates being stuck with the time limitations of the jeton-token for her shower!)
29 October
Where are the Trevants?
Dresden is probably more famous for what it is now than what it was. The beautiful old city centre was obliterated in 1945 by one of the most intensive fire bombings of the war. Last time we were here, 2000, the city was still rebuilding, more than 50 years after its destruction. Even then, it was spectacular! We are looking forward to a possible turn visit tomorrow, because the rebuilding of the centre of the city, as it was pre-war, is now complete. This includes the rebuilding, from scratch, of the 12th Century Cathedral!
Since our first visit to the old East Germany, in 1987, before the Wall came down, many things have changed. The roads are now up to Autobahn standard, the cities and towns have all been re-built. The cheap, mass-produced Trevants and Lada cars of the Communist era, have all disappeared - except for one lone relic we saw puttering over a motorway bridge as we, and thousands of cars and trucks, thundered on below. As campervanners, we know the shame of having everything on wheels – even Smart cars, pass us, so we felt a certain degree of sympathy for that lone Lada.
Today, a casual observer would probably notice nothing to identify the old East and West divide. The differences are still there, though. English is rarely spoken in the East, particularly by anybody over 30. We suspect that Russian would still be the predominant second language of older citizens of the former East Germany – and that may not be a bad thing. The new 'Russian invasion' seems to be tourism. The 'Russkies' are everywhere. Much like the Japanese, they seem to prefer organised tours. You run into masses of them in many of the popular tourist venues. Dresden, today, was full of them. Their attitude smacks of superiority, at least in their eyes. Are they the new 'Ugly Americans' of Europe?
In some ways, the incorporation of the old “Iron Curtain” countries into the European Union is a little sad. The 'Big Mac' sameness of the world has quickly pervaded cultures that, to some extent, had been frozen in the 1930's. Horse-drawn ploughs and carts were common in eastern Europe when we last visited. Villages in Romania and Bulgaria had just got electricity.
We would never begrudge the good citizens of the 'east' their improved lifestyles, but..... does everything have to look like 'Small-town USA'?
There are exceptions though! Meissen for example. About 30 kms from Dresden, it escaped the attention of Allied bombers. The town, its cathedral and castle stand today, much as they did in the 16th century. Yes, there is a Maccas and all the other 'sameness stuff', but they all seem to exist in a far better balance than many other places. We hope there are still many 'Meissens” left!
1 comment:
Every year, rather than naming their own selection, several of the largest automotive publications in Europe get together and pick their Car of the Year. Japan's Nihon Keizai Shimbun reports this morning that Sony plans to sell its 11-inch XEL-1 OLED TV in Europe in 2009.
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Tanyaa
Promoter
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