26 November
Sicilian driving temperament
Before we start, let's be clear. We love Italians. They are creative, gregarious, mostly friendly and welcoming. Sure, everybody has a bad hair day and you get the odd grumpy official in an office or cassa. But in general they are probably, as individuals, the most sociable people in Europe. Not only that, they are mostly understandable, even though we don't speak Italian – must have been those Latin classes in High School!
However, put them behind the wheel of anything that is self-propelled and they go crazy! The further south you go, the worse they get. In fact, in the north they have become extremely courteous and patient. Coming into Messina in Sicily today was a madhouse, only equalled in our experience by Istanbul and Saigon!
Lane markings mean nothing. Traffic lights are more a suggested course of action rather than mandatory. The horn is a device for the expression of frustration and pedestrians are simply potential collateral damage.
Despite the traffic and difficult signage, we finally found the Aire de Service recommended to us by a French Canadian couple we met last night. The park is specially designed for campervans and is packed with German 'grey nomads' who apparently stay here all winter. It has everything a campground has, but a bit more basic. The town is Giardini Naxos, about 50 kms from Messina, a beach resort, with now moth-balled hotels and a beach front (Lido) packed with bars and restaurants, again, mostly closed for the winter.
Their loss! It's warm, (22C) sunny and extremely scenic, with hill towns in the mountains behind us and the Mediterranean coast before us. Again, what more could you want?
24 November – 25 November
Amalfi shock
Waves break in the background as we cook dinner, perched 100m + above the beach in the small Calabrian town of Palmi.
How good does it get?
A horror day yesterday, when – against all advice – we attempted to drive the Amalfi coast south of Naples... in a Campervan. For those who haven't driven in Europe, it is difficult to describe the Amalfi coast road experience...? Imagine driving down your driveway, your driveway, not your street, in a cement truck, with cars parked on both sides - and confronting a council bus. Then add hairpin bends every 50m and other drivers, who all think they're Mario Andretti (including the council bus driver) and can cut the corners. On top of that, have crazy people stop in front of you and carry on conversations with others on the street. This goes on for 90kms.That's just about it!
NOTE: for the driver this was a blood-sweating experience, but for the navigator, it was all omigod! She just had to gulp quietly as even a “WOW” brought down the wrath of the driver! Especially when it was she who had suggested this might be a good idea.
Despite all this, it is a spectacular coast line. Sadly, we won't have too many photos to show how beautiful it was. Who can stop in their driveway with a council bus coming at them?
Last night we stopped behind a hotel in the small town of Sala Consilina. It was a free night but, as our wedding anniversary was looming, we decided to have dinner in the hotel restaurant to celebrate, rather than take a chance of being in a grotty motorway stop on the actual night. It was an interesting night, strangely reminiscent of one over 20 years ago in the mountains of “Old Yugoslavia”, when we had dinner in a hotel with the TV showing Disney cartoons in Serbo-Croat. Last night, it was 'Who Wants to be a Millionaire' in Italian. The food was just as average, the crowd equally 'interesting' and the overall experience unforgettable.
Braving the rough surfaced, non-toll motorways today was infinitely easier than the Amalfi experience. We crossed the Apennines in blazing sunshine. This is the good time of year in the south of Italy. Everything is green, it's warm and the olive crop is in full harvest. Traffic thinned to a trickle after Naples and the towns and small cities of Calabria and Basilicata were much more 'campervan accessible' than those further north.
So here we are, an hour or two off the ferry trip to Sicily tomorrow. It's warm again. Over 20C and bound to get warmer over the next week or so. We still wonder why southern Europeans close down holiday resorts in winter? Haven't they ever been to Scandinavia this time of the year?
Our first experience of Italy was over 30 years ago. Then it was almost Third World. North of Rome, there has been a spectacular change. Towns and cities are cleaner and the infrastructure is modern and functional.
We have never been this far south before and generally things are still a bit 'third world' here. Towns are dirty and dusty. Rubbish collection day always seems to be tomorrow and the whole country has a major problem with graffiti! The Autostrada are great. But get off them here in the south and you could just as well be in Bulgaria!
The woes of the south are often blamed on the Mafia. But the Mafia cannot be held responsible for the scenery, which is “Spectacular!” Mountains; towns; villages – all are amazing – big, rocky, clear (today), mostly green.
23 November
One month in
One month ago today, we picked up our van in Amsterdam. Adjusting to this lifestyle is not a problem for us after two previous trips and our caravanning life at home. There are always challenges though! Our fridge won't work on 240V and the gas heater has fallen to bits. Neither of these are a major problem though. We survive on relatively cool beer and we shop almost daily for fresh food. We haven't yet had cold enough weather for the heater to be a problem, although tonight the cold is creeping up through the floor!
Too much talk about how easy this trip has been thus far is only courting disaster. But we have had no major problems. Perhaps an old van like this has had all its problems worked out?!!!
Chugging diesel motors surround us tonight as we are parked for the night in a motorway services area 100 + klm north of Naples, along with the trucks. Every time we park in a location like this, cars seem to attach themselves to us. It must be a European thing? We can park at the far end of a carpark, almost out of sight of civilization, and little pesky cars will park within a gnat's wing of us on both sides!
Escaping Rome this morning was relatively easy. Just a few detours and we were on our way to Hadrian's villa, 30 km east of the city. Hadrian didn't skimp when it came to country houses. The ruins cover several hectares and some of it is still being 'dug' in the archaeological sense. We braved the mid-morning cold, 6-7C to be rewarded with a sprawling villa with some of the most magnificent 'ruins' we have seen – and we have seen RUINS!
Tomorrow we head further south to the Amalfi coast. We have heard that it is difficult to drive in this area in a camper: we'll see.
22 November
Walk 'like Romans do'
The ancient road along which Roman Legions marched in triumphant return to Rome still exists. Some of the road even has the original pavement along which chariots rumbled and sandalled feet marched, two thousand and more years ago. These great occasions were celebrated by monuments and arches along this grand route, the remnants of which can be seen today. All of this was about returning TO Rome in triumph. In our inimitable style, we unintentionally marched OUT of town on the Via Appia Antica!
Somehow we got confused at Quo Vadis, the church that marks what we now know to be the start of the 'home stretch' of the Via – towards Rome! Enthralled by the countryside, the road and its monuments, we marched on until we came upon the Catacombs of San Callista where they buried the popes until the 3rd century, at which time Constantine, bless his heart, decided Christianity was an okay thing to do. Then they dug 'em out and re-buried them under churches, “which you can see if you take our special guided tour.” They also buried 500,000 other people, mostly the rich and the famous – just so they had a chance at Heaven as well. The catacombs were open, so we did the tour and set off again.
As most people know, Roman roads are straight. So we expected to go straight back to the city. The road sure was straight - and long. As darkness threatened and the traffic noise was replaced by the mooing of cows, we asked a couple of wandering locals how much further it was to town. Pointing the direction we had just come from, they said “a very LONG way” - or words to that effect.
Never mind, with the help of a local, friendly Filipino lady (just what you'd expect on the Via Appia Antica!) we caught a bus, a Metro, and then a suburban train home.
On close examination of the map of Rome, we discovered we had walked almost to the International Airport – close to 20 klms from the city centre. Lucky we're fit!
In the morning we had managed to find St Peter's and wandered amongst the dead Popes. The queue to get into the Basilica would have been close to a klm long. It moved relatively fast, although not fast enough for some Italians who are so 'special' that they can simply walk through the klm long queue to the front. Nobody else in the crowd seemed to object to these queue-jumpers, so we just plodded on, secure in the knowledge that nasty un-imaginable things always befall queue jumpers at least at some time in their lives!
Talking of waiting in queues, what never ceases to astound us is the number of different languages one hears, waiting in line and walking the streets, reminding us that we are, indeed, in a foreign country. We are just two, talking our own language, occasionally to others who understand us, which is mostly comfortable. Yet we are in a world that has existed for centuries, - yes surrounded by people of many different nationalities like at home, but not like at home where we hold the higher ground. Here, we are the strangers – the dummies who don't understand the language – or the currency, and it's frustrating ... but still exciting.
20 November – 21 November
Roman Legends
'Rome wasn't built in a day'; 'All roads lead to Rome'; When in Rome, do as the Romans do'; and there are probably many more commonplace sayings in regard to Rome.
What can you say about the first of these?
True. Rome wasn't built in a day. Nor has it decayed in a day. But it sure is in a state of decay. The ruins of a three thousand year old civilization, in the midst of a modern day city that cherishes its history and culture is why people flock here. Nothing much has changed in respect to these ancient parts of the city since we first visited Rome over 30 years ago – nor would you expect it to. The Colosseum is still where it always has been and the various forums that surround it are still a wonder to stroll around and imagine what went on here so many years ago.
What is in a state of decay is the rest of the city. Big cities have obvious problems with infrastructure and services. But Rome isn't that big. With a population of 2.5 million, it would only be considered just 'medium sized' these days. Suburban trains are disgustingly dirty. Stations look like a war zone and rubbish is ankle deep in the streets on the fringes of the city. One interesting side light to rail travel is the segregation that seems to occur in carriages. Rome, in common with many European cities, has a growing population of north African and middle eastern people. When we jumped on a train at our local station, the number of dark skinned people was overwhelming. Then we noticed that the other end of the carriage was all white!
It probably still holds true that almost all roads lead to Rome, but which part? Heading for the Eternal City yesterday, we took the 'cheap option' – probably no surprise – and elected to take the free rather than toll motorway to the city from our overnight stop in a free park in the very nice little hill town of Chiusi, about 200 km north of Rome. The parking area was next to a school and was also the town bus terminal. Early morning call that morning!
Free motorways are probably the ones Mussolini built in the 1930s and they haven't been maintained since!
Campervans rattle and vibrate at the best of times, but we were shaken in more ways than one when we reached the outer ring road of Rome and what we thought was the exit to our camping grounds. Many parts of Rome have a new bit and an old bit. This was the case with the Via Flaminia where our camping grounds was located. We, of course – aided by our TWO nav-girls, headed for the original Via. One can quickly guess where the camp was! So, perhaps all roads do lead to Rome. But watch which part!
There is no question that the 'Latin Temperament' has given the world some, if not most, of its great artistic and design triumphs. The down side of this, particularly in Rome, is the 'Roman Way'. Arrogance is usually attributed to the French. What the Romans have is not really arrogance, but 'attitude'. 'Face' in the Asian sense, is a big thing to the 'Populae Romanae'. Capes and expensive coats, dark sunglasses and, of course, the best shoes, are mandatory to stroll the streets. One must be totally self-obsessed, control the footpath and talk constantly to one's companion, or, if lacking a companion, on a mobile phone, complete with hand gestures.
To walk in silence is just not 'simpatico!' From our observations, any three Italians walking together will comprise, one talking, one waiting for the first to draw breath so as to commence talking themselves and a third who is so frustrated that they have commenced a conversation on their mobile phone! For two walking together, forget the mobile phone. For one walking solo, reinsert the mobile phone!
Observations of the many levels of police on the streets illustrates this dramatically. You have Polizia Metropolitane, Carabinieri, Polizia Finanzia and the lowly, but beautifully turned out, Polizia Trafficano. Sadly, we have no pictures of any of the splendid uniforms worn by these officers, but they are all very grand. Boots, white sashes, multi-striped epaulettes and, of course, guns! No police vehicle of any kind moves anywhere without flashing blue lights and sirens. Citizens – and others - who transgress, are required to engage in dramatic and heated debates, complete with hand gestures and ever-increasing numbers of officers – on bikes and in cars!.
We observed a nasty jay-walker who was confronted by three Carabinieri near the Spanish Steps. By the time the situation had been resolved, another four, splendidly kitted-out, Carabinieri had arrived on BMW motorbikes, lights flashing, to assist in the process. This overwhelming weight of numbers, brass, boots, white sashes and, of course, guns, seemed to immediately resolve the problem and the guilty party went on his way with a stern finger waving.
Women police of all varieties require special comment. Never let it be said that a uniform couldn't be worn with style. All the girls have their hair out, way beyond shoulder length in most cases. They are beautifully made up and sometimes sporting large loop earrings. Just the thing for a down and dirty street fight. But they do have guns!
So - never attempt to 'Do as the Romans do'. You'll certainly be a poor imitation.
Just a note: we mentioned that we had only been separated by trips to amenities blocks prior to Florence. Well! The separation became much longer once we hit the Flaminio Camping Village, where the amenities are a wonder to behold. While both blocks have piped classical music, toilet seats that give instructions, EXTREMELY roomy shower cubicles, some with en-suite, the ladies' block also has a water feature and a “powder room” with stools, mirrors – both magnifying and full-length - and hair-dryers! What more could a girl want??
19 November
Don't mess with us!
The following towns are 'off the Christmas list': Siena, San Gimignano and Montepulciano. They make it so hard for Campervanners that we tried, but in the end, didn't bother. In Siena, for example, they wanted 20 euros ($A40) to park – for ½ hour or 24 hours – 20 euros! We won't be back . Pity, because we remember from last time it was a great place.
18 November
Alone in Firenze
Another great day weather wise, although a little cooler.
It's a very rare occasion that we go our separate ways when we travel in Europe. In fact, today is the first time we have been out of each other's sight (except for going to the amenities block!) in almost two months. None of this has to do with a 'joined at the hip' thing, or safety fear. We just mostly like to do the same things. Today though, Paul had had enough of palaces and high entrance fees! We'd done the obligatory Academia with the David, and the Uffizi, still one of the greatest art galleries in the world! The Pitti Palace was just one palace too many. So labour was divided between the supermarket and one of the great Renaissance Palaces of Europe.
Who got the better deal?
Sicilian driving temperament
Before we start, let's be clear. We love Italians. They are creative, gregarious, mostly friendly and welcoming. Sure, everybody has a bad hair day and you get the odd grumpy official in an office or cassa. But in general they are probably, as individuals, the most sociable people in Europe. Not only that, they are mostly understandable, even though we don't speak Italian – must have been those Latin classes in High School!
However, put them behind the wheel of anything that is self-propelled and they go crazy! The further south you go, the worse they get. In fact, in the north they have become extremely courteous and patient. Coming into Messina in Sicily today was a madhouse, only equalled in our experience by Istanbul and Saigon!
Lane markings mean nothing. Traffic lights are more a suggested course of action rather than mandatory. The horn is a device for the expression of frustration and pedestrians are simply potential collateral damage.
Despite the traffic and difficult signage, we finally found the Aire de Service recommended to us by a French Canadian couple we met last night. The park is specially designed for campervans and is packed with German 'grey nomads' who apparently stay here all winter. It has everything a campground has, but a bit more basic. The town is Giardini Naxos, about 50 kms from Messina, a beach resort, with now moth-balled hotels and a beach front (Lido) packed with bars and restaurants, again, mostly closed for the winter.
Their loss! It's warm, (22C) sunny and extremely scenic, with hill towns in the mountains behind us and the Mediterranean coast before us. Again, what more could you want?
24 November – 25 November
Amalfi shock
Waves break in the background as we cook dinner, perched 100m + above the beach in the small Calabrian town of Palmi.
How good does it get?
A horror day yesterday, when – against all advice – we attempted to drive the Amalfi coast south of Naples... in a Campervan. For those who haven't driven in Europe, it is difficult to describe the Amalfi coast road experience...? Imagine driving down your driveway, your driveway, not your street, in a cement truck, with cars parked on both sides - and confronting a council bus. Then add hairpin bends every 50m and other drivers, who all think they're Mario Andretti (including the council bus driver) and can cut the corners. On top of that, have crazy people stop in front of you and carry on conversations with others on the street. This goes on for 90kms.That's just about it!
NOTE: for the driver this was a blood-sweating experience, but for the navigator, it was all omigod! She just had to gulp quietly as even a “WOW” brought down the wrath of the driver! Especially when it was she who had suggested this might be a good idea.
Despite all this, it is a spectacular coast line. Sadly, we won't have too many photos to show how beautiful it was. Who can stop in their driveway with a council bus coming at them?
Last night we stopped behind a hotel in the small town of Sala Consilina. It was a free night but, as our wedding anniversary was looming, we decided to have dinner in the hotel restaurant to celebrate, rather than take a chance of being in a grotty motorway stop on the actual night. It was an interesting night, strangely reminiscent of one over 20 years ago in the mountains of “Old Yugoslavia”, when we had dinner in a hotel with the TV showing Disney cartoons in Serbo-Croat. Last night, it was 'Who Wants to be a Millionaire' in Italian. The food was just as average, the crowd equally 'interesting' and the overall experience unforgettable.
Braving the rough surfaced, non-toll motorways today was infinitely easier than the Amalfi experience. We crossed the Apennines in blazing sunshine. This is the good time of year in the south of Italy. Everything is green, it's warm and the olive crop is in full harvest. Traffic thinned to a trickle after Naples and the towns and small cities of Calabria and Basilicata were much more 'campervan accessible' than those further north.
So here we are, an hour or two off the ferry trip to Sicily tomorrow. It's warm again. Over 20C and bound to get warmer over the next week or so. We still wonder why southern Europeans close down holiday resorts in winter? Haven't they ever been to Scandinavia this time of the year?
Our first experience of Italy was over 30 years ago. Then it was almost Third World. North of Rome, there has been a spectacular change. Towns and cities are cleaner and the infrastructure is modern and functional.
We have never been this far south before and generally things are still a bit 'third world' here. Towns are dirty and dusty. Rubbish collection day always seems to be tomorrow and the whole country has a major problem with graffiti! The Autostrada are great. But get off them here in the south and you could just as well be in Bulgaria!
The woes of the south are often blamed on the Mafia. But the Mafia cannot be held responsible for the scenery, which is “Spectacular!” Mountains; towns; villages – all are amazing – big, rocky, clear (today), mostly green.
23 November
One month in
One month ago today, we picked up our van in Amsterdam. Adjusting to this lifestyle is not a problem for us after two previous trips and our caravanning life at home. There are always challenges though! Our fridge won't work on 240V and the gas heater has fallen to bits. Neither of these are a major problem though. We survive on relatively cool beer and we shop almost daily for fresh food. We haven't yet had cold enough weather for the heater to be a problem, although tonight the cold is creeping up through the floor!
Too much talk about how easy this trip has been thus far is only courting disaster. But we have had no major problems. Perhaps an old van like this has had all its problems worked out?!!!
Chugging diesel motors surround us tonight as we are parked for the night in a motorway services area 100 + klm north of Naples, along with the trucks. Every time we park in a location like this, cars seem to attach themselves to us. It must be a European thing? We can park at the far end of a carpark, almost out of sight of civilization, and little pesky cars will park within a gnat's wing of us on both sides!
Escaping Rome this morning was relatively easy. Just a few detours and we were on our way to Hadrian's villa, 30 km east of the city. Hadrian didn't skimp when it came to country houses. The ruins cover several hectares and some of it is still being 'dug' in the archaeological sense. We braved the mid-morning cold, 6-7C to be rewarded with a sprawling villa with some of the most magnificent 'ruins' we have seen – and we have seen RUINS!
Tomorrow we head further south to the Amalfi coast. We have heard that it is difficult to drive in this area in a camper: we'll see.
22 November
Walk 'like Romans do'
The ancient road along which Roman Legions marched in triumphant return to Rome still exists. Some of the road even has the original pavement along which chariots rumbled and sandalled feet marched, two thousand and more years ago. These great occasions were celebrated by monuments and arches along this grand route, the remnants of which can be seen today. All of this was about returning TO Rome in triumph. In our inimitable style, we unintentionally marched OUT of town on the Via Appia Antica!
Somehow we got confused at Quo Vadis, the church that marks what we now know to be the start of the 'home stretch' of the Via – towards Rome! Enthralled by the countryside, the road and its monuments, we marched on until we came upon the Catacombs of San Callista where they buried the popes until the 3rd century, at which time Constantine, bless his heart, decided Christianity was an okay thing to do. Then they dug 'em out and re-buried them under churches, “which you can see if you take our special guided tour.” They also buried 500,000 other people, mostly the rich and the famous – just so they had a chance at Heaven as well. The catacombs were open, so we did the tour and set off again.
As most people know, Roman roads are straight. So we expected to go straight back to the city. The road sure was straight - and long. As darkness threatened and the traffic noise was replaced by the mooing of cows, we asked a couple of wandering locals how much further it was to town. Pointing the direction we had just come from, they said “a very LONG way” - or words to that effect.
Never mind, with the help of a local, friendly Filipino lady (just what you'd expect on the Via Appia Antica!) we caught a bus, a Metro, and then a suburban train home.
On close examination of the map of Rome, we discovered we had walked almost to the International Airport – close to 20 klms from the city centre. Lucky we're fit!
In the morning we had managed to find St Peter's and wandered amongst the dead Popes. The queue to get into the Basilica would have been close to a klm long. It moved relatively fast, although not fast enough for some Italians who are so 'special' that they can simply walk through the klm long queue to the front. Nobody else in the crowd seemed to object to these queue-jumpers, so we just plodded on, secure in the knowledge that nasty un-imaginable things always befall queue jumpers at least at some time in their lives!
Talking of waiting in queues, what never ceases to astound us is the number of different languages one hears, waiting in line and walking the streets, reminding us that we are, indeed, in a foreign country. We are just two, talking our own language, occasionally to others who understand us, which is mostly comfortable. Yet we are in a world that has existed for centuries, - yes surrounded by people of many different nationalities like at home, but not like at home where we hold the higher ground. Here, we are the strangers – the dummies who don't understand the language – or the currency, and it's frustrating ... but still exciting.
20 November – 21 November
Roman Legends
'Rome wasn't built in a day'; 'All roads lead to Rome'; When in Rome, do as the Romans do'; and there are probably many more commonplace sayings in regard to Rome.
What can you say about the first of these?
True. Rome wasn't built in a day. Nor has it decayed in a day. But it sure is in a state of decay. The ruins of a three thousand year old civilization, in the midst of a modern day city that cherishes its history and culture is why people flock here. Nothing much has changed in respect to these ancient parts of the city since we first visited Rome over 30 years ago – nor would you expect it to. The Colosseum is still where it always has been and the various forums that surround it are still a wonder to stroll around and imagine what went on here so many years ago.
What is in a state of decay is the rest of the city. Big cities have obvious problems with infrastructure and services. But Rome isn't that big. With a population of 2.5 million, it would only be considered just 'medium sized' these days. Suburban trains are disgustingly dirty. Stations look like a war zone and rubbish is ankle deep in the streets on the fringes of the city. One interesting side light to rail travel is the segregation that seems to occur in carriages. Rome, in common with many European cities, has a growing population of north African and middle eastern people. When we jumped on a train at our local station, the number of dark skinned people was overwhelming. Then we noticed that the other end of the carriage was all white!
It probably still holds true that almost all roads lead to Rome, but which part? Heading for the Eternal City yesterday, we took the 'cheap option' – probably no surprise – and elected to take the free rather than toll motorway to the city from our overnight stop in a free park in the very nice little hill town of Chiusi, about 200 km north of Rome. The parking area was next to a school and was also the town bus terminal. Early morning call that morning!
Free motorways are probably the ones Mussolini built in the 1930s and they haven't been maintained since!
Campervans rattle and vibrate at the best of times, but we were shaken in more ways than one when we reached the outer ring road of Rome and what we thought was the exit to our camping grounds. Many parts of Rome have a new bit and an old bit. This was the case with the Via Flaminia where our camping grounds was located. We, of course – aided by our TWO nav-girls, headed for the original Via. One can quickly guess where the camp was! So, perhaps all roads do lead to Rome. But watch which part!
There is no question that the 'Latin Temperament' has given the world some, if not most, of its great artistic and design triumphs. The down side of this, particularly in Rome, is the 'Roman Way'. Arrogance is usually attributed to the French. What the Romans have is not really arrogance, but 'attitude'. 'Face' in the Asian sense, is a big thing to the 'Populae Romanae'. Capes and expensive coats, dark sunglasses and, of course, the best shoes, are mandatory to stroll the streets. One must be totally self-obsessed, control the footpath and talk constantly to one's companion, or, if lacking a companion, on a mobile phone, complete with hand gestures.
To walk in silence is just not 'simpatico!' From our observations, any three Italians walking together will comprise, one talking, one waiting for the first to draw breath so as to commence talking themselves and a third who is so frustrated that they have commenced a conversation on their mobile phone! For two walking together, forget the mobile phone. For one walking solo, reinsert the mobile phone!
Observations of the many levels of police on the streets illustrates this dramatically. You have Polizia Metropolitane, Carabinieri, Polizia Finanzia and the lowly, but beautifully turned out, Polizia Trafficano. Sadly, we have no pictures of any of the splendid uniforms worn by these officers, but they are all very grand. Boots, white sashes, multi-striped epaulettes and, of course, guns! No police vehicle of any kind moves anywhere without flashing blue lights and sirens. Citizens – and others - who transgress, are required to engage in dramatic and heated debates, complete with hand gestures and ever-increasing numbers of officers – on bikes and in cars!.
We observed a nasty jay-walker who was confronted by three Carabinieri near the Spanish Steps. By the time the situation had been resolved, another four, splendidly kitted-out, Carabinieri had arrived on BMW motorbikes, lights flashing, to assist in the process. This overwhelming weight of numbers, brass, boots, white sashes and, of course, guns, seemed to immediately resolve the problem and the guilty party went on his way with a stern finger waving.
Women police of all varieties require special comment. Never let it be said that a uniform couldn't be worn with style. All the girls have their hair out, way beyond shoulder length in most cases. They are beautifully made up and sometimes sporting large loop earrings. Just the thing for a down and dirty street fight. But they do have guns!
So - never attempt to 'Do as the Romans do'. You'll certainly be a poor imitation.
Just a note: we mentioned that we had only been separated by trips to amenities blocks prior to Florence. Well! The separation became much longer once we hit the Flaminio Camping Village, where the amenities are a wonder to behold. While both blocks have piped classical music, toilet seats that give instructions, EXTREMELY roomy shower cubicles, some with en-suite, the ladies' block also has a water feature and a “powder room” with stools, mirrors – both magnifying and full-length - and hair-dryers! What more could a girl want??
19 November
Don't mess with us!
The following towns are 'off the Christmas list': Siena, San Gimignano and Montepulciano. They make it so hard for Campervanners that we tried, but in the end, didn't bother. In Siena, for example, they wanted 20 euros ($A40) to park – for ½ hour or 24 hours – 20 euros! We won't be back . Pity, because we remember from last time it was a great place.
18 November
Alone in Firenze
Another great day weather wise, although a little cooler.
It's a very rare occasion that we go our separate ways when we travel in Europe. In fact, today is the first time we have been out of each other's sight (except for going to the amenities block!) in almost two months. None of this has to do with a 'joined at the hip' thing, or safety fear. We just mostly like to do the same things. Today though, Paul had had enough of palaces and high entrance fees! We'd done the obligatory Academia with the David, and the Uffizi, still one of the greatest art galleries in the world! The Pitti Palace was just one palace too many. So labour was divided between the supermarket and one of the great Renaissance Palaces of Europe.
Who got the better deal?
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