30 September – 1 October
A Different World

Fewer than 5 million people live in Norway, so in comparison to its neighbours, particularly those who live south of here, Norway has large areas of close to pristine country. Not quite wilderness in the true sense, but heavily-wooded, open country with little or no human impact. Granted much of this is rock and frozen Arctic wasteland, but all this creates a vastly different world to Europe on the whole. Rightly or wrongly, they still hunt large animals here. Furs and pelts are on sale everywhere. The air is clean and the water crystal clear. Is there some of that Viking spirit still left in Norway?

We very rarely do formal tours when we travel, but this trip we had planned to do organised Fjord trips. Fortunately for us, the lateness of the season meant that there were no tours that suited our schedule and our needs. Instead, both our fjord trips to Hardangerfjord, described previously, and the one we did yesterday to Sognefjord, were managed using local regular vehicle ferries. A fraction of the cost and just as spectacular. What we appreciated, as we drove along beside the fjords, were the frequent rest areas beside the road, (note – some of them are actually bus stops!) designed to contemplate the serenity. If you ever have to wait a long time for a bus – just hope it's at a Norwegian bus stop. They have the best views in the world!

Today, 1 October, we headed off from our rented cottage near Bergen, towards Oslo. On the way, we took a ride on the Flam (pronounced Flum) railway, 20 kms into the hills through some of the most rugged countryside in southern Norway. As usual for Norway, every turn on this hundred year old line took our breath away. Let's acknowledge it, Norway does good scenery!

After several very full days, we discovered tonight that we have a spare day before we move into our rented house near Oslo. What a relief! We have been ''working” fairly hard lately, so a day just cruising about will be a bonus. Tonight, at Laerdal, we are in an “apartment”, read “motel style room with cooking facilities” right on the Sognefjord. Note – all the cabins were booked!! We foraged in the local supermarket for our dinner, then wandered down to the fjord to contemplate said serenity and marvel at the clarity – and chill!! - of the water. Gotta love it!

October 2
Bring a packed lunch
Our day of cruising was just as expected. The road across the mountains of central Norway through small ski resorts to the small town of Geilo was simply spectacular (again!). This high and this far north, the autumn leaves have definitely started falling, yet the russets and golds still provide splashes of riotous colour among the evergreen pines, as well as congregating together to create scenes of their own, softening the greys of the mountain rocks. And on the hill tops, a dusting of early snow tops off the panorama.

Well so much for the obvious beauties of Norway!

Gloves off? -
Those intending to travel to Norway (and everybody should at least once in their lifetime!) should bring a packed lunch! Everything is expensive beyond belief. It has little to do with value for money or paying for quality. Sure, locally manufactured products like clothing and some food items are very high quality. However, one has to wonder why products commonly available all over the world, most of which are made in China, are often two to three times the cost of anywhere else.
Don't even think of drinking here! Australian wine is widely available here (but we don't drink it when travelling, preferring to try local product). An average wine that would cost $8-$9 at home would set you back $20 - $25 in Norway. The 'beer index' is right off the scale! A 500ml can will cost $6 - $7 in a supermarket, compared with $1 in Germany or $.50 in Vietnam! Don't even think of drinking in a bar! For another comparison, we noticed a common brand of soy sauce that is available at home in a deli today, it was $10 + - at home exactly the same product costs $2.50 - $3.00!
But... if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. - so we grin and bear (beer!) it! Just think of it as an over-priced, but high-quality adult amusement park!

3 October – 4 October

Wink and a Nod

Arrived at our house just outside Oslo last night (3 October). Great place with a fantastic location beside the Oslofjord, about 30 minutes' drive from Oslo. We have a frig/freezer, stove, dishwasher, washing machine, underfloor heating and a fantastic view. We also have cable TV including BBC World News so we can understand what is going on in the real world. What more could we ask for? Today, after debating the merits of driving into a smallish city like Oslo, as opposed to taking the train, we drove. Lesson one. Central Oslo parking is even more expensive than everything else in Norway. We may have done better on the bus. $40 for 5 hours' parking was a bit of a sting.
All that aside, Oslo is a very pleasant city and rather easy to get in and out of by car -as long as you don't get lost - and of course we did!. Not a large city by today's standards, but one with a lively centre that boasts all the usual shopping opportunities – if you are game, that way inclined and are earning Norwegian kroner!

The National Gallery has a great collection of 19th century landscapes - predominantly Norwegian of course. Most come here to see the Scream by E. Munch. With this classic and a small collection of other classic 19th century European Impressionists, and of course the landscapes, this is a great gallery. And FREE.

Unfortunately, the 'must see' Oslo Cathedral, was shrink-wrapped for renovations and we couldn't go in. The City Hall was an ugly, red-brick building, but had some interesting frescoes relating to the Norwegian resistance during WWII inside and wooden reliefs of scenes from Nordic mythology on the outside. All in all, a successful “Tommy Tourist” day.

Norwegians are generally extremely helpful and friendly. However, one aspect of their character, or ours, is their reluctance to recognise people in one-on-one encounters. If one encounters someone walking down an isolated forest track, most Australians, and probably many other nationalities, would say hello or at least nod in recognition. Such behaviour in Norway will bring a range of quite bizarre reactions. Some shrink away in fear. Others scowl. Many just ignore the contact. On odd occasions, the response can be an almost aggressive glare. Ah well, viva la difference!

5 October

Norway in a Nutshell

Only a couple of days remain for our Norway portion of the trip so it is probably time to summarise Norway in the way that they market short trips around the country. “Norway in a Nutshell.”

Toilets: - Use them, they are free, ubiquitous and always extremely clean.
Outdoors: - Go there! The scenery is spectacular, the air is clear and clean.
Bargain shopping: - Absolute no-no.
Drinking in pubs: - only if you don't drink.
Roads: - Good for the level of traffic, although alarmingly narrow in the mountains. But be warned. It will take twice the time you expect to get from A to B with speed limits of 80km on motorways and 70km on the open road.
Driving: - Good drivers who obey the rules and are patient with foreigners.
Eating out: - See Bargain shopping and drinking in pubs.
Supermarkets: - Beware! Credit cards don't always work when you hit the check-out. No hard and fast rule about this – some supermarkets are fine, others refuse every card you own!
Security: - Very safe but always exercise caution.
Language: - English universally understood and mostly very well spoken.
Accommodation: You get what you pay for. But here you'll pay a lot for even average accommodation.
Weather: - It IS Norway! Changeable.
Highlights: Everything outdoors! Small villages and farms. Western Fjords. Oslo city centre. The Norsk Folke Museum in Oslo. Hunting lodges in mountain passes.