26 September – 27 September

For whom the bell Tolls

Stavanger is the oil capital of oil rich Norway. The North Sea wells have pumped billions into the Norwegian economy. And with the record prices of the past year it has been all the better for Norway. The city shows all the signs of a boom town. For a city of around 100,000 people it has its fair share of new high rises and infrastructure. However the the old centre of this city, that once boasted more than 70 sardine canneries, retains much of its 17 Century character.

Driving on Norwegian highways takes enormous patience! Speed limits change every km or less. But never above 80km per hour. Add to this the Tolls! They are frequent, although not crippling. What is difficult is paying them. Virtually all booths are automatic, but most don't take credit cards and the change required is difficult to obtain when travelling. The real thrill comes when you hit the 'no stop tolls'. No payment options at all. You either have a 'tag' or you have to pay at the next petrol station. Sounds difficult and inconvenient – and that it is. Now try to pay at the next or the next or the next..service station. No. The stations that accept toll payments change from Kommune to Kommune, now ESSO, next Q8, then Shell. As you might imagine, missing a toll payment in a country where a takeaway pizza costs $30, could easily cost you your inheritance. And let's not forget the beer index. Today, a six pack (admittedly of 500ml cans) cost 131 kr (about $26). And then there's the wine! We found a state-run wine store yesterday where the cheapest bottle was $15. Scary stuff when the wine we brought from Germany cost about $4!
Ah the joys of travel! It all comes to nothing though when you turn the next corner and see yet another biscuit tin scene or gape in amazement at the difficulties involved in building an 8 km tunnel under a fjord.

We are in a small village outside Bergen now for four days (see photo, ours is the little white place in the middle) – not a bad spot!